What to do in the Mississippi Gulf Coast

Chef Jeffrey Hansell had to leave Mississippi to fall it in love with it again. For years, Hansell honed his culinary acumen in award-winning kitchens across the country, scooping up accolades like a nomination for Food and Wine magazine’s “Best New Chef” along the way. But when an opportunity came about to lead a new hotel restaurant in Bay St. Louis, it was too good to pass up.

“For me, this was coming home,” he says. “I grew up here and was just waiting for the right opportunity.”

Since 2020, Hansell has led the kitchen at Thorny Oyster, tucked inside the 53-room Pearl Hotel in downtown Bay St. Louis. The seafood-centric restaurant has earned praise for, no surprise, its oysters but also dishes that hint at Hansell’s time working in Louisiana (Commanders Palace, Oxlot 9), like the bouillabaisse and frog legs cooked in hot butter sauce.

But you’ll find plenty of Mississippi on the menu too, from Gulf-caught seafood to produce, showcasing Hansell’s love for his hometown.“It’s hard to put into words what makes this area so special,” he says. “I’d say it’s more of a feeling than anything else. There’s this sense of peace, like nothing can really ruin your day. Life just slows down when you’re here, and I think that’s something pretty special especially in today’s world.”

Below, Hansell shares a few of his Gulf Coast favorites:

Jeff Hansell stands in his restaurant, Thorny Oyster, in Bay St. Louis, MS. — Jeff Hansell in his restaurant Thorny Oyster in Bay St. Louis, Mississippi. Photo: Thorny Oyster / Kat Kimball

The raw bar is a centerpiece of your menu, hence the name — what is different about Mississippi oysters?

Oysters have a terroir, just like wine. They pick up all the little nuances of the environment they’re grown in. Mississippi oysters grow in the nutrient-rich waters of the Gulf, near the mouth of the Mississippi River. Their salinity can vary depending on how much freshwater is coming down the river and into the Gulf. I’d describe them as salty and earthy, with a rich, creamy finish. That’s what I love about oysters. They really give you a taste of where they come from.

What’s your favorite dish on your menu?

This question always stumps me. Our menu is pretty seafood-heavy, mainly because we have direct access to some of the best seafood in the world. Right now, especially with the weather getting cooler, I’d have to say the bouillabaisse. It’s one of those dishes that really puts the seafood center-stage while still letting each ingredient’s flavor shine through. Currently, we’re making it with mussels, Gulf shrimp, scallops and red snapper. The best way I can describe it is a rich, brothy seafood stew. It’s comforting without being too heavy, and it really lets the seafood speak for itself.

For someone who is coming to the Mississippi Gulf Coast for the first time, what is one dish they have to eat?

Another tough question. I don’t think I could narrow it down to just one dish. We have so much incredible seafood here, and I think limiting yourself to one thing would be missing out.

If you’re visiting the Coast for the first time, my advice would be to find a restaurant that takes pride in sourcing local seafood and try a little bit of everything. Whether it’s fresh Gulf shrimp, oysters, crab, or locally caught fish, you really can’t go wrong. Just make sure you’re eating something that came out of our waters.

When you go out to eat, where do you go?

I don’t get out to eat nearly as much as I’d like, but Long Beach Market and Deli in Long Beach never disappoints. Everything is fresh and full of flavor. The kimchi fries are a must, and they’ve also got an extensive beer and dessert selection. It’s just one of those spots that always delivers.

The outdoor dining space at Thorny Oyster, which sits under The Pearl hotel in downtown Bay St. Louis. Photo: Thorny Oyster

What do you like to do when you’re not in the kitchen?

If I’m not in the kitchen, you can hopefully find me with a fishing pole in my hand. Whether it’s a quick afternoon wading off the beach, back in the marsh sight-casting for reds, or heading just offshore to one of our barrier islands, I love all of it.

There’s something about being out on the water that never gets old. If you’re visiting the coast and enjoy fishing, or even if you’ve never tried it before, I highly recommend getting out there. It’s one of my favorite ways to experience what makes this area so special.

Taylor Reef is definitely a favorite. It was built using the old Bay bridge that was destroyed during Katrina. It’s a quick, easy ride and you can always catch something.